How Cross Hatch Patterns Affect Engine Performance
Every rebuilt engine that burns oil, loses compression, or never reaches full power has something in common: the cylinder walls were not prepared correctly. According to experts at Circle Track Warehouse's performance racing resource, the difference between proper and improper cylinder honing can account for as much as 30 horsepower in high-end racing engines. That is a massive margin, and it traces back to one foundational element that most people overlook - the cylinder cross hatch pattern.
A cylinder cross hatch is the diamond-shaped scoring deliberately cut into cylinder walls during the honing process. It looks like a series of fine, intersecting diagonal lines when you peer down the bore. Understanding why that pattern exists, how its geometry affects what happens inside a firing engine, and what goes wrong when it is absent or incorrect can save you from an expensive rebuild failure.
This guide breaks down the science, the standards, and the practical decisions behind cylinder cross hatch patterns for anyone involved in engine building, repair, or simply curious about how internal combustion engines sustain their performance over time.
Key Takeaways
- Cross hatch angle drives oil distribution: A proper 45-degree cross hatch angle is considered ideal because the upward motion of the piston spreads oil sideways in both directions, covering the entire cylinder wall. If your engine is consuming excessive oil, checking cross hatch angle is the correct starting point.
- Performance gains are measurable: In high-end racing engines, the difference between proper and improper cylinder honing can equate to as much as 30 horsepower, and honing is often taken for granted yet is an effective means of maintaining oil control and increasing horsepower. Treat bore finish as a performance upgrade, not just a maintenance step.
- Glazed cylinders kill ring seal: If glazing of honing grooves occurs before break-in is complete, the piston ring will not seal properly, and the cylinder wall will no longer have the surface grooves necessary to carry lubricant, resulting in poor gas seal and high oil consumption. Address glazing immediately - it does not self-correct.
- Surface roughness must match the ring type: Most OEMs and ring manufacturers specify a surface finish of 15 to 25 Ra for moly-faced rings, achievable with #280 grit stones, while cast iron and chrome rings can tolerate a rougher finish of 20 to 35 Ra using coarser #220 grit stones. Mismatching grit to ring type is one of the most common rebuild errors.
- Plateau honing is the modern standard: A plateau finish is similar to a conventional finish except that the peaks have been removed or flattened out, and the finish attempts to duplicate the finish after the engine has been broken in by removing metal that would otherwise be removed by piston rings. This shortens break-in time and reduces wear from the first fire.
Quick-Start Prioritization Framework
| Scenario | Recommended Action | Effort Level | Time to Results |
|---|---|---|---|
| New engine build with fresh rings | Full plateau hone with torque plate | High | Weeks (machine shop) |
| Used engine, new rings only | Deglaze and restore cross hatch | Low-Medium | Hours (DIY possible) |
| Oil burning, blue smoke | Inspect for glazing, rehone if needed | Medium | Days |
| Performance rebuild or race engine | Custom hone angle for ring/stroke combo | High | Weeks |
| Nikasil or coated bore | Specialized abrasive deglaze only | Medium | Hours |
| Budget street rebuild | 240-grit flexible hone deglaze | Low | Hours |
Start here if you are:
- A DIY home rebuilder: A flexible ball-style hone connected to a standard electric drill handles deglazing and cross hatch restoration. Focus on consistent up-and-down speed and use honing oil throughout.
- A performance builder: Commission torque plate honing from a machine shop, specify your cross hatch angle based on stroke length and ring package, and verify the finish with a profilometer before assembly.
- An engine rebuilder concerned about emissions compliance: OEM engine remanufacturers programs have expressed concern that many aftermarket rebuilders may not have the know-how or right equipment to reproduce an OEM cylinder bore finish, and the worry is that a rebuilt engine honed the usual way may not pass an emissions test. Invest in profilometer verification.
What the Cross Hatch Pattern Actually Does
Oil Retention and the Peaks-and-Valleys Principle
The cross hatch pattern is not decorative and it is not a byproduct of machining. It is a precision-engineered surface that performs two simultaneous and conflicting jobs: holding enough oil to lubricate the piston rings, while remaining smooth enough for those same rings to seal combustion gases above them.
When a freshly honed cylinder is viewed microscopically, the surface appears as many peaks and valleys. The peaks are the highest points, which make contact with the rings. The valleys are areas cut by abrasives during the honing process. Once a fresh engine is fired, the tops of the peaks are literally sheared off as the rings seat into the cylinders, creating a plateau for the rings to ride over and a light film of oil retained in the valleys.
This microscopic landscape is the foundation of ring sealing. Experiments revealed that a more optimal surface finish has a few microscopic peaks combined with deeper valleys. This offers the opportunity to store sufficient oil in the valleys to lubricate the rings while still providing a smooth enough surface to seal the rings to the bore - an approach first called a plateau finish back in the 1980s.
Pro Tip: Think of the cross hatch surface like a topographic map. You need hills (peaks for ring contact) and valleys (for oil storage), but not mountains so sharp they cause friction damage. The plateau honing process flattens those mountain peaks before your rings have to do it under combustion pressure.
How the Cross Hatch Angle Controls Oil Flow
The angle at which those diagonal grooves intersect is not arbitrary. The angle at which cross hatch lines intersect can vary, and is a function of stroke rate, which is the number of inches per minute that are fed or stroked during cylinder honing operations.
The cross hatch angle should be the same the full length of the cylinder, and while the most common angle is roughly 45 degrees, it may vary depending on ring tension or stroke length.
The consequences of deviating from that standard are real and measurable. Too flat a cross hatch angle can cause the rings to chatter as they pass over it, creating a loss of ring seal. Too steep an angle can create excessive oil migration, causing the rings to line up and producing oil consumption problems.
How Cross Hatch Angle Varies by Application
The 45-Degree Standard and Why It Works
For the vast majority of production engines and general rebuilds, a 45-degree included cross hatch angle is the correct choice. When cylinder walls have a 45-degree cross hatch, the upward motion of the piston spreads oil sideways in both directions and covers the entire wall. When these oil-retaining grooves are evenly spaced, the piston rings tend not to rotate or surge in the direction of the groove.
This combination of full wall coverage and ring stability makes 45 degrees the workhorse angle for cast iron blocks with conventional ring packages. If you are rebuilding a standard street engine, this is your target.
Adjusting Angle for Stroke Length and Ring Type
Specialized applications require deviation from the 45-degree standard, and knowing when to adjust is part of what separates a competent rebuild from a professional one.
Some builders prefer as little as a 20 to 30 degree cross hatch when using low-tension oil rings, because it reduces the amount of oil movement up and down the cylinder. Low-tension rings simply do not need to pump as much oil, so a shallower angle prevents over-oiling the bore.
Conversely, long-stroke engines may perform better with a larger 60-degree cross hatch, as the angle provides increased oil movement to the top of the bore and returns oil more rapidly to the pan, although blow-by may increase somewhat, according to experts at Total Seal.
Some applications today have angles as steep as 60 degrees and some very high-end race applications are as flat as 30 degrees. Longer cylinder bores with longer strokes generally require a steeper angle to promote oil migration to the top of the cylinder for proper lubrication. Shorter strokes sometimes use a shallower angle. Most commonly seen in today's race and performance engines is something in the 32 to 45-degree range, depending on the specific application.
Coated Bores Require a Different Approach
For cylinders coated with nickel and silicone carbide (including Nikasil and Alusil), the cross hatch angle is often reduced to 10 to 15 degrees or less. This is because For cylinders coated with nickel hardened cylinders or a thermal spray coating, the coating has craters that retain oil better than an uncoated surface, so the surface finish can be much smoother and less cross hatch is used.
If you are working with a Nikasil-lined bore, the abrasive choice also changes. For deglazing Nikasil cylinders BRM recommends flexible cylinder hones with 240-grit aluminum oxide abrasive, while cast iron engine cylinders require silicon carbide abrasive instead.
Pro Tip: Use Aluminum Oxide abrasive on Nikasil-coated bores. The wrong abrasive chemistry can damage the coating permanently. Always confirm your cylinder material before selecting your honing abrasive.
Choosing the Right Honing Grit
Matching Abrasive to Ring Material
Grit selection is where many rebuilders make a costly mistake. The surface texture left by the hone must match the ring package going into the engine, otherwise the rings either seat too slowly or wear themselves out during break-in.
The composition of the piston rings influences the final surface requirement. Softer ring materials, such as moly-faced rings, demand a finer cylinder finish to reduce wear on the ring face during break-in. Conversely, harder chrome-faced or plain cast iron rings can tolerate, or even require, a slightly rougher surface finish to promote effective seating.
Typically, most ring manufacturers recommend using #220 grit silicon carbide honing stones if the engine will be assembled with plain cast iron or chrome rings, #280 grit stones for moly-faced rings, and #320 to #400 grit stones for moly rings if the engine is being built for racing or performance.
The Two-Stage Honing Process
The honing process typically involves a two-stage approach: a roughing stage to establish the correct diameter and geometry, followed by a finishing or plateau stage to refine the surface.
Most OEMs and ring manufacturers procedure, the cylinder is honed with coarse to medium stones followed by a very fine abrasive for a few strokes to remove only the tops of the peaks. For example, the cylinder would first be honed with #150, #220, or #280 grit stones, followed by a few strokes with #400 grit stones. The trick is to shave only the peaks off the cylinder walls.
For engine rebuilds as a general progression, Tanis Brush's cylinder hone grit guide recommends starting rough at 60 to 120 grit and finishing finer at 180 to 240 grit. If in doubt, always start with a finer grit - you can remove more material but you cannot add it back.
Measuring Success with a Profilometer
Visual inspection of a cross hatch pattern gives you a rough starting point, but it is no substitute for measurement. Among the more significant advances in cylinder honing is a highly specialized tool called a profilometer. This is a precision measuring device that can quickly evaluate the surface roughness of a cross hatch pattern. The tool precisely measures the surface texture of the bore, giving an end-user a highly accurate evaluation of the honing process.
A profilometer calculates a number of different measurements. For engine cylinder walls, the four primary outputs are Average Roughness (Ra), Core Roughness (Rk), Reduced Peak Height (Rpk), and Reduced Valley Depth (Rvk).
These numbers tell you whether the surface has the proper depth of cross hatch, enough bearing area to properly support the rings, and is smooth enough to minimize ring wear during the seating process.
In my experience, builders who skip the profilometer step are essentially assembling blind. The difference between a 15 Ra and a 35 Ra finish is invisible to the naked eye but means the difference between rings that seat in 50 miles and rings that never fully seat at all.
Plateau Honing vs. Conventional Honing
What Conventional Honing Leaves Behind
Conventional honing - running a coarse stone followed by a finishing stone - has been the standard practice for decades. The problem is that even with multiple stone progressions, peaks of folded and torn metal still remain in bores, and no amount of washing with an ordinary brush can remove this material. A too-rough bore results in scuffing and rapid wear of components, poor ring sealing, reduced component life, and oil consumption - especially a problem with today's thinner, low-tension piston rings.
Why Plateau Honing Changed the Game
On oil-lubricated moving part surfaces, it is customary to provide a plateau finish. A plateau finish is similar to a conventional finish, except that the peaks have been removed or flattened out. The finish attempts to duplicate the finish after the engine has been broken in, and removes metal that would otherwise be removed by piston rings. A proper plateau finish contributes to the mechanical and environmental efficiency of the engine.
For modern steel ring packages used in high-performance applications, plateau honing is essential. The improved durability of PVD-coated steel rings comes in part from the increased material strength and the hardness of the PVD face coating, but the other part of the increased performance and longevity comes from the plateau honing process, which is critical for modern steel rings.
Pro Tip: After plateau honing, perform the cotton ball test described by peaks of folded and torn metal. Lightly touch a cotton ball to the rotating cylinder bore. With a proper plateau finish, almost no cotton strands should snag on the surface. If strands pull away, the bore still has jagged peaks that need additional ultra-finish honing passes.
The Role of Torque Plate Honing
One step that separates professional engine builds from backyard efforts is the use of a torque plate during honing. Most enthusiasts understand bore diameter and cross hatch angle, but far fewer appreciate the distortion problem that occurs when a cylinder head is bolted to a block.
When a head is bolted to a block the load created by the tensioning process causes block distortion. This distortion can alter the geometry of the cylinder, meaning that a block without load will have a slightly different shaped cylinder bore than the same block with load. Dimensional variations of .003 to .004 inches have been recorded.
Torque plates are designed to the same specifications as the head of that particular application and are bolted to the block with the same tensions used to clamp the head. By honing a cylinder with the torque plate, you are creating the same conditions in the bore the engine will have under normal operation, so the resulting hone will be perfectly round when the engine is assembled.
Engines that are assembled using a torque plate not only have better ring sealing, but also wear more evenly. This even wear pattern extends engine life significantly and reduces the likelihood of bore distortion-related blowby returning after break-in.
I have found that builders who skip the torque plate on performance builds almost always see ring seal complaints within the first 10,000 miles. The extra cost at the machine shop is always cheaper than a second teardown.
Cylinder Glazing: What It Is and Why It Destroys Performance
How Glazing Forms
Glazing is essentially combusted oil residue and carbon that remains on the cylinder wall and eventually builds up to a wet, shiny look. It almost looks like the cylinder wall has been painted with a clear coat. This finish occurs when oil fills in all those valleys, creating a very smooth surface because no load was applied to peel the oil off of the wall. This glazing makes the job of removing oil from the cylinder wall nearly impossible, and the buildup will continue until a bluish haze is visible coming from the exhaust.
Glazing of cylinder walls typically occurs during engine break-in and is caused by improper operation during the break-in period by operating at power settings too low to allow the piston rings to seat properly with the cylinder walls.
The Performance Consequences
The damage from cylinder glazing cascades quickly. High oil consumption, excessive smoke through the exhaust, high blow-by, lower than expected power output, and increased oil contamination are just some of the possible results of an improper engine break-in.
Additionally, while breaking in newly installed piston rings, a small amount of wear must occur between rings and cylinder wall in order to seat the rings properly and ensure a gas-tight seal. If the cylinder walls are too smooth, this wear will not occur, with the rings skating over the polished surface.
The only solution is mechanical. The only way to remove such a glaze is by re-honing the cylinder wall. No additive or break-in procedure can undo a glazed bore. If your engine is showing blue smoke and excessive oil consumption shortly after a rebuild, glazing is the first thing to investigate.
Common Cross Hatch and Honing Mistakes to Avoid
Inconsistent Stroke Speed Creates Stacking
Too flat a cross hatch angle can the cross hatch angle changes significantly from the top to the bottom of the cylinder. These angles should be consistent top to bottom in the cylinder bore, and unequal angles are generally created by a machine operator being inconsistent with stroke speed.
The result of stacking is a bore that looks fine to the naked eye but fails to provide uniform oil retention throughout the ring travel zone. Rings will seal inconsistently, leading to variable compression readings across the same cylinder.
Skipping Coolant and Honing Oil
Failing to use adequate honing oil can lead to overheating, which damages both the honing stones and the workpiece. In practice, dry honing also causes the abrasive to load up with metal debris, which prevents consistent cutting action and produces an unpredictable surface finish. Always flood the bore with honing oil before and during every pass.
Over-Honing and Material Removal
Most OEMs and ring manufacturers metal with the finer stones or you will be down to the base metal and lose all or much of the required valley depth in the cross hatch. According to the complete cylinder honing procedure guide at Apex Industries, honing should remove only 0.0005 to 0.001 inches of material total. Anything beyond that risks altering bore geometry.
Not Cleaning the Bore Thoroughly After Honing
The abrasive particles left in a freshly honed bore are sharp metal and grit. Once all cylinders have been honed, it is essential that the cylinders be scrupulously cleaned. Using lacquer thinner with white cotton rags or paper towels works well. Continue cleaning the walls until the paper towels no longer become dirty.
Pro Tip: Many rebuilders think soap and water is sufficient for post-honing cleanup. It removes most contamination but misses fine abrasive particles embedded in the surface. Use solvent first, then follow with hot soapy water and a soft brush, then dry thoroughly and apply a light coat of clean engine oil immediately to prevent surface rust.
Break-In: Making the Cross Hatch Work for You
All the precision honing in the world achieves nothing if the engine break-in procedure is wrong. The cross hatch creates the conditions for ring seating - the break-in provides the pressure that makes it happen.
The primary goal of the break-in process is to establish an ideal wear profile between the piston rings and the cylinder wall. When a proper break-in is executed, the ring will be riding on a film of oil on the bearing loading surface of the cylinder wall while the valleys in the cross-hatched surface provide proper oil retention.
Bore finish will have a lasting effect on both how well the rings break in and the extent that they seal both cylinder pressure and keep oil out of the chamber. Idealizing ring seal starts with proper cylinder honing, and a proper torque plate honing with a 45-degree included honing angle is certainly moving in the right direction.
The cylinder pressure from 50 to 75 percent and eventually to 100 percent load will place additional pressure on the back side of the rings, which will quickly establish the proper wear pattern for seating. With today's rings, especially moly-faced versions, this can be achieved in a very short period of time and certainly within 20 to 30 miles of street driving.
Monitor the engine break-in period, typically 500 to 1,000 miles. Proper cross hatch finish enables quick ring seating and break-in should show progressive performance improvement. Observe oil consumption during break-in - a properly honed cylinder with good cross hatch shows minimal oil consumption, and excessive oil consumption indicates poor honing or defective rings.
For street engines, avoid synthetic oil during the initial break-in period. If the wrong type of oil is used initially, or the break-in is too easy, rings and cylinders could glaze and never seal properly. A fresh cylinder wall needs medium to high engine loading to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression.
Applying This Knowledge: What to Look For and When to Act
For anyone maintaining or rebuilding an engine, knowing when the cross hatch has done its job - and when it has been compromised - is a practical skill with measurable payoffs.
An engine with 125,000 miles that still shows the cross hatch pattern is a sign the engine was treated properly and is not wearing down at a faster rate. Visible cross hatch at high mileage indicates good lubrication habits and proper break-in.
When you are buying a used engine or inspecting a block before a rebuild, a freshly honed cylinder looks fairly rough due to the honing process that leaves a cross hatch pattern, while a used cylinder features a glazed surface with little or no visible cross hatch, depending upon wear.
Tools like the Pro-Graad TwistFlex cylinder honing and deburring tool range are designed specifically to make cross hatch restoration accessible for DIY rebuilders working on cast iron and steel bores, removing glaze and restoring a uniform series of oil-retaining valleys without requiring professional machine shop equipment for deglazing work. For full rebuilds with new pistons and rings, a machine shop with plateau honing capability and a torque plate remains the professional standard.
Simply breaking the glaze and restoring the cross hatch may be all that is needed to seat a new set of rings in cases where cylinder wear is minimal and bore geometry remains within tolerance. Always measure bore diameter at multiple points before deciding whether deglazing is sufficient or full boring is required.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is a cylinder cross hatch pattern and why does it matter?
When a cylinder is manufactured, a cross hatch hone is used to score a diamond pattern into the surface of the liner, which is necessary to allow an oil film to be held on the surface of the cylinder wall and lubricate the piston during operation. Without this pattern, rings cannot seat properly and oil control fails entirely, leading to blue smoke, power loss, and accelerated wear.
What cross hatch angle should I use for my engine?
For most general street and performance applications, 45 degrees is the industry standard. Deglazing involves use of an abrasive to create approximately 45-degree angle cross hatching of tiny grooves in the cylinder wall. Cross hatching that deviates too far from 45 degrees can cause either unwanted accumulation of oil or inadequate oil adhesion. However, long-stroke and low-tension ring applications may call for angles anywhere between 30 and 60 degrees - consult your ring manufacturer's specifications.
Can I hone cylinders myself at home, or do I need a machine shop?
For deglazing work - restoring the cross hatch on a lightly worn bore before installing new rings - a flexible ball-style hone attached to a standard electric drill is entirely capable. These tools produce a consistent 45-degree cross hatch pattern for better sealing and oil retention, remove cylinder glaze and smooth peaks without affecting bore geometry, and automatically center in the bore because the tool is manufactured oversized. Full boring, plateau honing, and torque plate work require a machine shop.
How do I know if my cylinders are glazed?
The visual sign of glazing is a shiny, mirror-like finish on the cylinder wall where the cross hatch lines are filled in or invisible. Operationally, cylinder wall glazing happens when prolonged idling prevents proper combustion temperatures, causing oil to build up on cylinder walls, which reduces piston ring sealing and leads to loss of compression and increased oil consumption. Blue smoke from the exhaust, rising oil consumption, and compression readings that are lower than expected are the key symptoms.
How important is cleaning the cylinders after honing?
Critical. Abrasive particles embedded in the bore after honing act like sandpaper against your new rings during initial start-up. the complete cylinder honing procedure guide at Apex Industries solvent to remove all honing oil and metal debris, as oil remaining on the bore interferes with piston ring installation. Clean until the bore shows no discoloration on a white rag, then oil the surface lightly before assembly.
What happens if I use the wrong grit for my cylinder material?
Skipping grit steps or using overly coarse abrasives can lead to poor ring seating and premature wear - always follow a progressive sequence and verify surface roughness with a profilometer where possible. Using a coarse abrasive on Nikasil or aluminum-lined bores risks scoring the coating permanently, turning a minor deglazing job into a complete cylinder replacement.
Sources
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Cylinder Honing: The Importance of Peaks and Valleys - Circle Track Warehouse. Performance engine honing resource covering horsepower gains and cross hatch fundamentals. https://motorstate.com/cylinder-honing-peak-and-valleys/
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Flex-Hone Tips: Cylinder Walls and Cross-Hatch Angles - Brush Research Manufacturing. Technical guide to cross hatch angles and stroke rate relationships. https://www.brushresearch.com/blogs/brm-official-blog/flex-hone-tips-cylinder-walls-and-cross-hatch-angles
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EngineLabs Blueprint Series: The Art and Science of Cylinder Honing - Engine Labs. Comprehensive technical article on plateau honing, profilometers, and surface finish. https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/enginelabs-blueprint-series-the-art-and-science-of-cylinder-honing/
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Engine Cylinder Bore Surface Finishes - Engine Builder Magazine. Detailed coverage of Ra values, plateau honing procedures, and grit selection. Most OEMs and ring manufacturers
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How to Break-In Your Piston Rings the Right Way - Engine Builder Magazine. Break-in procedure guidance and bore finish effects on ring seating. Bore finish will have a lasting
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How to Break-In an Engine - JE Pistons. Piston ring seating procedures and load requirements for proper break-in. When breaking in an engine, it is important to vary the load on the engine and avoid synthetics during break-in to take full advantage of establishing wear patterns.
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Cylinder Honing - Galloway Engines. Cross hatch angle selection, stacking defects, and performance application guidance. Too flat a cross hatch angle can
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Torque Plate Simulation Honing - Galloway Engines. Technical explanation of bore distortion and torque plate honing benefits. When a head is bolted to a block
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Complete Cylinder Honing Procedure - Apex Industries. Step-by-step BRM GBD6 honing guide including cross hatch angle verification. the complete cylinder honing procedure guide at Apex Industries
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Ask Away: Cylinder Wall Glazing - OnAllCylinders. Expert explanation of glazing causes, symptoms, and remediation. https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018/05/18/ask-away-jeff-smith-cylinder-wall-glazing-get-rid/
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Cylinder Bore Refinishing with Honing Tools - Engine Builder Magazine. Grit selection guide for ring types including moly, chrome, and cast iron. Typically, most ring manufacturers
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Profilometer: Sealing Your Cylinders the Right Way - Engine Labs. Ra measurement methodology and profilometer use for cylinder bore analysis. https://www.enginelabs.com/news/profilometer-sealing-your-cylinders-the-right-way/
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A New Finish in Honing - Engine Builder Magazine. Plateau honing techniques and the ultra-finish hone process. peaks of folded and torn metal
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Performance Engine Break-In the Right Way - DSPORT Magazine. Wear profile establishment, fuel wash risks, and break-in loading guidance. https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/quick-tech-performance-engine-break-in-the-right-way/
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Deglazing (Engine Mechanics) - Wikipedia. Overview of deglazing process and cross hatch angle requirements. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deglazing_(engine_mechanics)
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What Grit to Hone Cylinders for Proper Ring Seating - Engineer Fix. Comprehensive grit selection guide for various cylinder materials and ring types. https://engineerfix.com/what-grit-to-hone-cylinders-for-proper-ring-seating/
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Fact or Fiction: Engine Hones for Nikasil Cylinders - Brush Research Manufacturing. Specialized guidance for deglazing Nikasil and coated cylinder bores. https://blog.brushresearch.com/engine-hones-for-nikasil-cyllinders
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Boring and Honing Tips and Tricks - Engine Builder Magazine. Bore geometry standards, distortion causes, and practical honing guidance. After honing with either conventional or diamond stones, manufacturers suggest finishing by smoothing the surface with a fine grit abrasive or sweeping the bores with a flexible brush or nylon bristle plateau honing tool to remove jagged peaks and folded or torn material.
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Cylinder Hone Grit Guide - Tanis Brush. Progressive grit sequence recommendations for engine rebuild applications. https://www.tanisbrush.com/cylinder-hone-grit-guide
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Pro-Graad TwistFlex Cylinder Honing Tools - Pro-Graad. Flexible honing tools for bore deglazing and cross hatch finishing. https://pro-graad.com/
